Nov 21, 2014

Kitten Behavior Basics

What to expect in your cat's first 18 months (and how to make the most of them)

Mothers are key to having a happy, secure kitten: Well-socialized cats are more likely to have well-socialized kittens. Kittens often mirror their mothers' calm or fearful attitude toward people; this is a normal part of their socialization.

But you can play a vital role, too: By petting, talking to and playing with your new kitten, you can help her develop good "people skills."

Here are general guidelines for kittens' stages of development that provide an outline of what to expect during their first 18 months of life.

You'll also find tips that will help you and your kitten get the most out of the those important first 18 months.

Birth to two weeks: your kitten's neonatal period

  • Kitten learns to orient toward sound.
  • Eyes begin opening; they are usually open by two weeks of age.
  • Competition for rank and territory begins. Separation from mother and littermates at this point can lead to poor learning skills and aggression toward people and other pets.

Kittens who are gently handled 15 to 40 minutes a day during their first seven weeks are more likely to develop larger brains.

Two to seven weeks: your kitten becomes social

By the third week, sense of smell is well-developed, and kitten can see well enough to find her mother.

  • By the fourth week, sense of smell is fully mature and sense of hearing is well-developed. Kitten starts to interact with littermates and can walk fairly well. The teeth start to come in.
  • By the fifth week, eyesight is fully mature, and kitten can right herself, run, place her feet precisely, avoid obstacles, stalk and pounce and catch "prey" with her eyes.
  • Kitten starts to groom herself and others. 
  • By the sixth and seventh weeks, kitten begins to develop adult sleeping patterns, motor skills and social interaction abilities.

Kittens are usually weaned at six to seven weeks, but they may continue to suckle for comfort as their mother gradually leaves them for longer periods of time. Orphaned kittens, or those weaned too soon, are more likely to exhibit inappropriate suckling behaviors later in life, such as sucking on blankets, pillows or your arm. Ideally, kittens should stay with their littermates (or other "role-model" cats) for at least 12 weeks.

Seven to 14 weeks: the time your kitten will play the most

  • Social and object play increases kitten's physical coordination and social skills. Most learning is by observation, preferably of their mother.
  • Social play includes belly-ups, hugging, ambushing and licking.
  • Object play includes scooping, tossing, pawing, mouthing and holding.
  • Combined social/object play includes tail chasing, pouncing, leaping and dancing.

Three to six months: your kitten starts ranking the household

  • Kitten is most influenced by her "litter," which may now include playmates of other species.
  • Kitten begins to see and use ranking (dominance or submission) within household, including humans.

Six to 18 months: your kitten is an adolescent

  • Kitten increases exploration of dominance, including challenging humans.
  • If not spayed or neutered, kitten experiences beginnings of sexual behavior.

All Stages: Interactions are important to your kitten

Kittens orphaned or separated from their mother and/or littermates too early often fail to develop appropriate "social skills," such as learning how to send and receive signals, what an "inhibited bite" (acceptable mouthing pressure) means, how far to go in play-wrestling and so forth.

Play is important for kittens because it increases their physical coordination, social skills and learning limits. By interacting with their mother and littermates, kittens explore the ranking process ("who's in charge") and also learn "how to be a cat."

Kittens who are gently handled by people 15 to 40 minutes a day during the first seven weeks are more likely to develop larger brains. They're more exploratory, more playful and better learners. Skills not acquired during the first eight weeks may be lost forever.

While these stages are important and fairly consistent, a cat's mind remains receptive to new experiences and lessons well beyond kittenhood. Most cats are still kittens, in mind and body, through the first two years of life.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado. All rights reserved.

Source : humanesociety[dot]org

What Are Your Pet’s Plans for Thanksgiving?

Back to Press Releases

Keep your pets healthy and happy over the holidays

As you celebrate Thanksgiving, don't forget your canine and feline friends! Give thanks for them by making sure they're safe. It's all too easy for dinner guests to accidentally leave a door open and allow an escape. And your uncle's goodhearted desire to slip a few leftovers to your dog under the table can actually be dangerous.

"Thanksgiving is a special time of year for many families, but it can also be hectic, so it’s important for people to plan for their pets," says KC Theisen, director of pet care issues for The Humane Society of the United States. "Whether your family is traveling or staying home, you can keep your pet safe and happy by thinking about their well-being ahead of time."

With a few simple precautions, your pets can happily share this special time. Here are some tips to keep your four-legged family members healthy and happy:

Is your pet partying with you at home?

  • Provide your pet with a quiet, out-of-the-way room during holiday parties. Some pets may enjoy socializing opportunities, but the excitement may overwhelm others.
  • Avoid the temptation to give your pets table scraps, especially bones. Bones easily splinter and can cause serious and expensive health problems, even death.

Is your pet traveling with you?

  • If you are planning to bring your pet along to visit friends and relatives during the holidays, make sure you plan ahead. Your pet might be happier at home with a reputable pet sitter instead.
  • For more information on traveling with your pet, please review our traveling tips for pets on planes, trains, and ships »

  • When traveling with your pet, attach tags with contact information for your mobile phone as well as a phone number for the place you're staying. (Collars and tags are essential for dogs and cats whether at home or traveling.)
  • Traveling with your pet by air is risky, particularly during this busy time for airlines. If you do have to fly rather than drive, remember that your pet's carrier will be expected to undergo airline screening. Be sure to either have your pet securely harnessed so she can be safely contained while her carrier is x-rayed or request a special secondary screening from TSA that will not require you to take her out of her carrier.
  • It's generally safer to travel with you pet in a car, but you still need to take steps to keep your pet (and yourself) safe.

Is your pet taking a vacation from you?

  • If you are leaving your pet at home with a pet sitter, be sure to ask for references, plus written proof that he or she is bonded and has commercial liability insurance.
  • If you are leaving your pet at a boarding kennel, visit the kennel ahead of time to make sure that it's clean, comfortable and safe for your pet.

Share the season with all animals

If you're looking for a way to share your gratitude this season, remember that shelter pets would be thankful for a new home and family to share their lives with! Visit the Shelter Pet Project to search for a pet, find local shelters and learn more about the adoption process.

And if you're looking for more ways to celebrate the season, we've got more Thanksgiving tips for you!

Source : humanesociety[dot]org

Happy Thanksgiving to You and the Animals

Mouthwatering food; beloved companions, animal and human; and a bounty of fall wildlife—all these are blessings that we can agree deserve our gratitude in this season of Thanksgiving.

To help you enjoy your holiday, The Humane Society of the United States offers suggestions for preparing a memorable holiday meal, keeping your pets safe and happy, and appreciating the iconic bird of Thanksgiving.

Cook with inspiration

  • Before planning your holiday meal, nibble on this food for thought about industrial turkey production, and consider buying from a sustainable farmer.
  • More people than ever are planning their holiday menus to focus on plant-based foods. Why not join them by picking out a few recipes from our collection?

appetizers ~
Hot cranberry punch
Green apple celery salad with walnuts
Cranberry-jalapeno appetizer
Festive green salad

sides ~
Award-winning cornbread
Rosemary roasted potatoes
White bean and kale soup
Baked acorn squash
Pumpkin and corn soup
Sweet and white potato salad with greens
Wild rice with peas, lemon, and tarragon

entrées ~
Savory chickpea tart
ThanksLIVING "turkey" and stuffing
Cornucopia stuffed squash
Non-turkey casserole
Stuffed scaloppini
Thanksgiving Day tofu

desserts ~
Pumpkin pie
Cranberry apple crumble
Pumpkin spice bread
Mint chocolate cake
Pumpkin cheesecake
Mocha almond fudge ice cream cake

See our list of favorite recipes for more menu inspiration.

Keep pets safe

Make your dog thankful by whipping up sweet potato jerky, bowser biscuits, or peanut butter popsicles. Our recipe collection also offers treat ideas for cats and birds.

Keeping safety in mind will get you and your pet through the season unharmed.

  • The excitement of a party may overwhelm some pets, so provide your cat or dog with a quiet, out-of-the-way room during holiday parties.
  • Avoid the urge to give your pets table scraps, especially bones. Bones easily splinter and can cause serious health problems, even death.
  • Carefully consider whether to take your pet with you on a trip (air travel can be dangerous).
  • If Fluffy and Fido are staying home while you travel, be sure to choose a pet sitter or boarding kennel wisely.
  • Wherever your pets spend Thanksgiving, dogs and cats should all have collars and tags with ID giving a way to reach you.
  • Keep your pets well during cold weather.

Treasure turkeys and other wildlife

  • Most of the turkey products Americans eat are consumed in the last two months of the year. Industrially produced turkeys are crowded into warehouses, bred to grow so fast that they may have trouble standing or walking, and are unable to mate naturally. If you eat turkey this season, please consider buying from a farmer invested in sustainability and animal welfare. If you're in the mood for an alternative, there are more meat-free products on the market than ever before, or you can make your own (see menu above).
  • Wild turkeys are making a comeback in some areas, and you may see them foraging in your neighborhood. Enjoy watching their activities, and keep an eye out for them while driving, but don't feed them, please. Wild turkeys may be numerous enough to become pesky in some areas. Try our effective, non-lethal ways to get these flocks to move along. Scaring them away is much better than killing them.
  • Whether your local wildlife consists of birds or is more down to earth, there are always ways to enjoy the wildlife around you.  See our suggestions on watching fall wildlife, get tips on feeding all backyard birds, and see ways you can help wildlife in your own yard.
Source : humanesociety[dot]org

The Origin of the Baby New Year

Every year it's the same thing. Some diapered little baby is paraded around wearing a sash with the new year written on it. Who hasn't been to a New Year's Party that ended that way, huh? Okay, me neither. But the Baby New Year is still an iconic image that even popped up in a really bad sequel to Rudolph the Red-Nosed Baby. Usually in concert with the Baby New Year there is also a wizened old man with a ZZ Top beard. But this article isn't about that. It's about that naked baby.

 

 

The use of an infant as a symbol of the start of the new cycle that begins with the passage of the year dates back to ancient Greece. The festival of Dionysus, who was the god of wine, song and merriment let us not forget, was a big thing for the Greeks. No doubt the festival of Dionysus often ended long after the womenfolk had been sent to bed and each male reveler had left his male Greek friends behind to unsteadily walk home to the little woman.

Before these parties got down to the good stuff, however, it was the custom of the time to parade a newborn baby around in a basket. The baby was a symbol and a herald for fertility of the crops. (Probably just the crops since Greek style doesn't produce much in the way of offspring.

None so's you want to keep, anyway.) Across that big lake, the Egyptians were also fond of holding a ceremony of rebirth that involved the use of a young baby. In fact, there was a specific ceremonial ritual involving a young man and an older bearded man carrying a baby inside a basket that was discovered on the lid of a sarcophagus that is now on display in a museum.

The symbol of a Baby New Year was ubiquitous throughout the pagan religions so it should come as no surprise that the Catholic Church disallowed it for centuries. Finally, thanks to a fact that Bush seems incapable of grasping---that it is next to impossible to kill an idea that people cleave to with all their might---the Catholic Church gave in and allowed infants to be used in New Year celebrations. Okay, they made one adjustment. The Baby New Year was transformed from a pagan symbol into a symbol of the Baby Christ.

The contemporary image of the Baby New Year comes to us, like the Christmas tree, courtesy of those fun-loving, always-with-the-joke Germans. It was the Germans, you see, who first slapped a diaper on the Baby New Year. The newly diapered Baby New Year first cropped up in German woodcarving illustrations in the 1300s. When the German immigrants poured into Pennsylvania they brought with them the Christmas tree, Groundhog Day and our current image of the Baby New Year.

 


Nov 17, 2014

What's New, Sassy Cat?

Back to News/Features

Life's on the upswing for dozens of dogs and cats rescued from a North Carolina puppy mill

by Ruthanne Johnson

Even filthy, the little pale-colored kitten was all that. When HSUS rescuer Tara Loller found her in a tiny room with five other Persian cats, she was boldly exploring a dilapidated plastic tub on top of a table. Her soiled fur and swollen eyes made her look ancient. “But she was very curious,” remembers Loller, “and would come up to me and then go nurse on her mom.”

The first sign of her spunkiness came when Loller picked her up to have her photo taken for evidence. She immediately wriggled with all of her might to be let down, Loller says. She’d also run sideways and then spin around, as if trying to catch her tail. Loller named the kitten Sassafras, Sassy for short.

Sassy was one of nearly 60 dogs and cats rescued from a North Carolina puppy mill in early October—the state’s 21st puppy mill rescue in just three years. The breeder had been charged with animal cruelty in 2002 but was still selling small breed dogs on multiple websites.

When HSUS rescuers arrived on the scene, they found dogs soaking wet in the pouring rain and dozens more inside the house in wire cages.

Inside the cat room, the stench of ammonia overwhelmed rescuers, making it hard to breathe. “I can’t even explain how bad it was,” says The HSUS’s Tara Loller. “The walls were brown. The floors were saturated with feces and urine. They had no way to escape that situation. That was their life.” Sassy and the other cats coughed when they breathed.

Judi Vogt, shelter veterinarian for the Humane Society of Charlotte, examined the animals in The HSUS’s fully equipped trailer. Her group and other local emergency placement partners took in the animals and began administering medical care---including vaccinations, dental cleanings, antibiotics for infections, soothing hair trims and baths for irritated skin, and cleaned and clipped nails. She sutured a Yorkshire terrier’s broken jaw so it would heal properly. Comprehensive care helped ready each animal for adoption.

Sassy is now in the care of Brother Wolf Animal Rescue, a local group that also took in four other cats and several dogs. Executive coordinator Sheryl Mann and her daughter are fostering the kitten until she’s ready for a new home.

After Mann bathed her and gently combed the mats from her fur, Sassy’s fluffy white coat emerged. Her eyes and breathing improved in just 48 hours. Brother Wolf held a “Name This Kitten” contest on Facebook, and dozens of families have applied to adopt her. Athena emerged as the most popular name. “[It’s] a pretty strong name for a brave little kitten,” Mann says. “I think it will serve her well.” She has since become Brother Wolf’s spokeskitty for stronger legislation against puppy mills in the state.

Puppy mill operators often sell puppies (and other pets) through official-looking websites, hiding behind adorable puppy photos, AKC registration papers and claims of strict breeder standards. In reality, animals sold online are likely from situations of cruelty and neglect, where profits are placed above the animals’ welfare. Reputable breeders don’t sell their puppies or kittens online. If you’re in the market for a puppy, read our tips to make sure you’re not supporting a puppy mill.

Source : humanesociety[dot]org

Nov 13, 2014

How to Choose a Boarding Kennel for Your Pet

Going out of town? A boarding kennel can give your pet quality care—and can give you peace of mind.

Pros and cons of using a boarding your pet in a kennel

Your pet depends on you to take good care of her—even when you have to be out of town. Friends and neighbors may not have the experience or time to properly look after your pet, particularly for longer trips. Leave pet care to the professionals, such as a pet sitter or boarding kennel.

A facility specializing in care and overnight boarding allows your pet to:

  • Avoid the stress of a long car or airplane ride to your destination. 
  • Stay where he's welcome (unlike many hotels). 
  • Receive more attention and supervision than he would if home alone most of the day.
  • Be monitored by staff trained to spot health problems. 
  • Be secure in a kennel designed to foil canine and feline escape artists.

Potential drawbacks to using a boarding kennel include:

  • The stress related to staying in an unfamiliar environment. 
  • The proximity to other pets, who may expose your pet to health problems. 
  • The difficulty of finding a kennel that accepts pets other than dogs and cats. 
  • The inconvenience of the drive over, which can be especially hard on a pet easily stressed by car travel.

How to find a good kennel for your pet

Ask a friend, neighbor, veterinarian, animal shelter, or dog trainer for a recommendation. You can also check the Yellow Pages under "Kennels & Pet Boarding." Once you have names, it's important to do a little background check.

Find out whether your state requires boarding kennel inspections. If it does, make sure the kennel you are considering displays a license or certificate showing that the kennel meets mandated standards.

After selecting a few kennels, confirm that they can accommodate your pet for specific dates and can address your pet's special needs (if any). If you're satisfied, schedule a visit.

What to look for in a kennel

On your visit, ask to see all the places your pet may be taken. Pay particular attention to the following:

  • Does the facility look and smell clean?
  • Is there sufficient ventilation and light? 
  • Is a comfortable temperature maintained? 
  • Does the staff seem knowledgeable and caring? 
  • Are pets required to be current on their vaccinations, including the vaccine for canine kennel cough (Bordetella)? (Such a requirement helps protect your animal and others.)
  • Does each dog have his own adequately sized indoor-outdoor run or an indoor run and a schedule for exercise?
  • Are outdoor runs and exercise areas protected from wind, rain, and snow?
  • Are resting boards and bedding provided to allow dogs to rest off the concrete floor?
  • Are cats housed away from dogs? 
  • Is there enough space for cats to move around comfortably? 
  • Is there enough space between the litter box and food bowls? 
  • How often are pets fed? 
  • Can the owner bring a pet's special food? 
  • What veterinary services are available? 
  • Are other services available such as grooming, training, bathing? 
  • How are rates calculated?

How to prepare your pet for being boarded

Be sure your pet knows basic commands and is well socialized around other people and pets; if your pet has an aggression problem or is otherwise unruly, she may not be a good candidate for boarding. Before taking your animal to the kennel, make sure she is current on vaccinations.

It's also a good idea to accustom your pet to longer kennel stays by first boarding her during a short trip, such as a weekend excursion. This allows you to work out any problems before boarding your pet for an extended period.

Before you head for the kennel, double-check that you have your pet's medications and special food (if any), your veterinarian's phone number, and contact information for you and a local backup.

When you arrive with your pet at the boarding facility, remind the staff about any medical or behavior problems your pet has, such as a history of epilepsy or fear of thunder. After the check-in process, hand your pet to a staff member, say good-bye, and leave. Avoid long, emotional partings, which may upset your pet. Finally, have a good trip, knowing that your pet is in good hands and will be happy to see you when you return.

Source : humanesociety[dot]org

Nov 11, 2014

Fact Sheet: Pets Used in Experiments

Back to Questions and Answers

  • What is a Class B dealer?
  • Where do Class B dealers get dogs and cats?
  • How many Class B dealers are in business and where are they located?
  • How many dogs and cats are sold by Class B dealers?
  • How widespread is the use of Class B dealers among universities and other research institutions?
  • Are Class B dealers regulated effectively?
  • What are the animal welfare problems with Class B dealers?
  • Why do some universities and other research institutions still purchase dogs and cats from Class B dealers?
  • What can I do to help end the use of  Class B dealers? 

Q: What is a Class B dealer?
A: Class B dealers are licensed by the U.S. Department of Agriculture to acquire dogs and cats from “random sources” to sell them to universities and other research institutions for use in experiments. In contrast, Class A dealers can only sell animals they have bred themselves.

Q: Where do Class B dealers get dogs and cats?
A: These dealers obtain dogs and cats from various "random sources," including auctions, flea markets and animal shelters. Some Class B dealers have also been known to obtain animals from unregulated middlemen known as "bunchers," who have been documented acquiring lost, stray and "free to a good home" pets, and even pets from neighborhood backyards. After purchasing animals, the dealers typically hold them until they transport them to universities or other research institutions.

Q: How many Class B dealers are in business and where are they located?
A: As of July 2014, there are five active Class B dealers of live, "random source" dogs and cats licensed to sell these animals to research facilities. While there are less than a half dozen of these dealers remaining and their numbers continue to dwindle, Class B dealers numbered in the hundreds in decades past. Currently, there are Class B dealers in two states: Michigan and Ohio.

Q: How many dogs and cats are sold by Class B dealers?
A: During fiscal year 2007 (the most recent year for which the USDA provided information), 2,863 Class B dogs and 276 Class B cats were sold for research. At the time, it was estimated that the combined total of Class B dogs and cats used in research represented 3 percent of the total number of dogs and cats used in research.

Q: How widespread is the use of Class B dealers among universities and other research institutions?
A: Please view our "Data on U.S. Research Institutions and Universities That Buy Class B Dogs and Cats" page for the most up-to-date information.

Q: Are Class B dog dealers regulated effectively?
A: A May 2009 National Academies report, titled "Scientific and Humane Issues in the Use of Random Source Dogs and Cats for Research," states the following:

"...in the more than forty years since the inception of the AWA (Animal Welfare Act), the USDA/APHIS (U.S. Department of Agriculture/Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service) has been unable to completely enforce the AWA in regard to activities of Class B dealers and that there are documented accounts of lost pets that have ended up in research institutions through Class B dealers. For example, in June 2005, the University of Minnesota received a dog from a Class B dealer that through a microchip scan was identified as a missing pet named "Echo." Recent inspection reports for one Class B dealer revealed that two cats were purchased from a private individual that upon trace back investigation admitted that they were illegally acquired "strays."

Q: What are the animal welfare problems with Class B dealers?
A: The HSUS opposes all trafficking in pets for resale to laboratories. There have been a number of cases of egregious violations of the Animal Welfare Act by Class B dealers over the years—including inadequate provision of veterinary care, food and water; inhumane handling; fraudulent paperwork that is required to prove an animal is not a stolen pet; and outright trafficking in stolen pets. In 2006, the HBO documentary "Dealing Dogs" exposed the atrocious conditions at Martin Creek Kennels—a Class B dealer facility run by C.C. Baird—through an undercover investigation. In fact, the original reason for the passage of the Animal Welfare Act—to stop the theft of pets for research—was triggered by a police raid on a Class B dealer, revealing similarly horrific animal care and treatment. While the numbers of these dealers have dwindled, little appears to have changed for the better in these unsavory operations in the intervening years.

Q: Why do some universities and other research institutions still purchase dogs and cats from Class B dealers?
A: Some institutions obtain “random source” dogs and cats from Class B dealers because the purchase price of these animals is typically less than Class A dogs and cats, who are “purpose-bred” (specifically bred to be sold to laboratories and used in research experiments). However, there is evidence that random-source animals actually cost more to use, given the added costs associated with their quarantine, treatment, and higher mortality, stemming from their unknown and variable medical backgrounds as pets and strays. Nevertheless, the HSUS strongly feels there is simply no justification for conducting experimentation on pets.
no justification for conducting experimentation on pets.

Q: What can I do to help end the use of random source Class B dealers?
A: Check out our Top Ten Ways to Help Animals in Labs page for the most up-to-date information on ways to help pets used in experiments and other animals in laboratories.


Learn more about animals used in experiments at
humanesociety.org/animalsinlaboratories

Source : humanesociety[dot]org

Nov 10, 2014

Celebrity Baby Boy Names

Are you looking for some inspiration for a baby boy name? If so, you may want to think about the names of some of your favorite celebrities. There are a number of celebrities with first names that could make a perfect name for your baby boy. Here are some of the celebrity names that you may want to take into consideration!

 

Simple Celebrity Names For Boys

There are a number of celebrities who have very simple baby names. If you are looking for something that is easy and perhaps traditional, one of these celebrity baby names may be a great choice for you. Some celebrities with simple baby names that you may want to consider include Adam Sandler,Matt Damon, Paul Walker, Patrick Dempsey, and Will Smith are some examples of celebrities with very short names. A trend among celebrity names is to use a shortened version of a name, such as Tom Cruise instead of Thomas Cruise.

Trendy Celebrity Names For Boys

Are you thinking about choosing a somewhat more trendy baby name for your baby boy? There are some celebrities who have names which are somewhat more trendy, and may be a suitable choice for your baby boy. Ashton Kutcher,Brad Pitt, Shane West, Jake Gyllenhaal, Zac Efron, and Taylor Lautner all have baby names which are very trendy.

Unisex Celebrity Names For Boys

If you don't know the sex of your baby, don't worry! There are a number of celebrities who have names which can be used for both boys and girls. Taylor Lautner, Jaden Smith, and Peyton Manning all are male celebrities who have unisex names. Hayden Panettiere, Jordin Sparks, Dakota Fanning, Jamie Lynn Spears, and Mackenzie Phillips all are female celebrities who have unisex names. The good thing about unisex baby names is that they are very trendy!

Female Celeb Last Names For Boys

There are a few celebrity last names which have become somewhat popular among baby boy name trends. The name Hudson, for example, which comes from Kate Hudson is an option that you may want to consider. Parker, which comes from Sarah Jessica Parker, is also a very trendy name among boys. Be sure to consider last names of female celebrities that you would like your baby to have.

Unique Celebrity Names For Boys

If you are looking for a more unique baby name for boys, there are a few celebrities who have names which may be suiting to your needs. Keanu Reeves, Forrest Whitaker, Channing Tatum, Jude Law, and Jules Asner are some of the celebrities who have more unique names. Since baby boy names are less likely to change over the years due to familial naming traditions, it is not surprising that there are only a few celebrities with unique names.

As you can see, there are a number of male celebrities who have names which could be ideal for your baby boy. Whether you want a more unique baby name, a unisex baby name, a simple baby name or a trendy baby name, one of your favorite celebs may have a name which is suitable for your son!


Nov 9, 2014

How to Find a Wildlife Rehabilitator

Get help for orphaned, sick, or injured wildlife using this state-by-state listing

If you find a wild animal in distress, scroll down to your state in the alphabetical list below to learn how to find a wildlife rehabilitator in your area.

IMPORTANT! Before you "rescue" any wild animal, make sure the animal really needs your help. Learn how to determine if the animal is truly orphaned or injured »

Alabama
Alabama Dept. of Conservation and Natural Resources Wildlife Rehabilitators List

Alaska
No online listing of rehabilitators. Contact the Alaska Dept. of Fish and Game for assistance.

Arizona
Arizona Game and Fish Dept. List of Wildlife Rehabilitators

Arkansas
For migratory birds: Arkansas Game and Fish Commission List of Bird Rehabilitators
Animals other than birds: Arkansas Game and Fish Commission List of Wildlife Rehabilitators

California
If you are in San Diego with native predatory wildlife in need of help, call the Fund for Animals Wildlife Center at 760-789-2324. Otherwise, use the California Dept. of Fish and Wildlife List of Wildlife Rehabilitation Facilities.

Colorado
Colorado Parks and Wildlife List of Wildlife Rehabilitators

Connecticut
Connecticut Dept. of Energy and Environmental Protection Wildlife Rehabilitator Listings

Delaware
Delaware Division of Fish and Wildlife Rehabilitator Contacts

District of Columbia
City Wildlife

Florida
If you are in south Florida, call the South Florida Wildlife Center at 954-524-4302 or 866-SOS-WILD. Elsewhere, call your local Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission regional office to locate a licensed rehabilitator.

Georgia
Georgia Wildlife Resources Division Permitted Wildlife Rehabilitators List

Hawaii
No online listing of rehabilitators. Call your local Division of Forestry and Wildlife office for assistance.

Idaho
No online listing of rehabilitators. Contact your Idaho Fish and Game Regional Office.

Illinois
University of Illinois Extension list of Wildlife Rehabilitators by County

Indiana
Indiana Dept. of Natural Resources Licensed Wildlife Rehabilitators. If you are unable to locate a rehabilitator, call your DNR law enforcement district or regional headquarters.

Iowa
Iowa Dept. of Natural Resources List of Wildlife Rehabilitators

Kansas
Kansas Dept. of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism Permitted Wildlife Rehabilitators

Kentucky
Kentucky Dept. of Fish and Wildlife Resources Wildlife Rehabilitators List

Louisiana
Louisiana Dept. of Wildlife and Fisheries Wildlife Rehabilitator List

Maine
Maine Dept. of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife Rehabilitators by County

Massachusetts
If you are on Cape Cod, call the Cape Wildlife Center at 508-362-0111. Elsewhere, use the Massachusetts Division of Fisheries and Wildlife Rehabilitators List (Click your district on the right side of the page.)

Maryland
Maryland Dept. of Natural Resources Wildlife Rehabilitators by County

Michigan
Michigan Dept. of Natural Resources Licensed Wildlife Rehabilitators List

Minnesota
Minnesota Dept. of Natural Resources Wildlife Rehabilitators by County

Mississippi
Mississippi Wildlife Rehabilitation, Inc. Wildlife Rehabilitator List

Missouri
No online listing of rehabilitators. Call your Missouri Department of Conservation Regional Office to locate a licensed rehabilitator.

Montana
Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks Wildlife Rehabilitation Center

Nebraska
No online listing of wildlife rehabilitators. Call your local Game and Parks Commission Conservation Officer to locate a licensed wildlife rehabilitator. You can also try contacting Nebraska Wildlife Rehab,  Raptor Recovery Nebraska, or Wildlife Rescue Team.

Nevada
Nevada Dept. of Wildlife Licensed Wildlife Rehabilitators

New Hampshire
New Hampshire Fish and Game Dept. Licensed Wildlife Rehabilitator List

New Jersey
New Jersey Division of Fish and Wildlife Licensed Wildlife Rehabilitator List

New Mexico
No online listing of wildlife rehabilitators. Call your local Game and Fish office to locate a licensed rehabilitator. You can also consult Animal Protection of New Mexico’s list of wildlife rehabilitators.

New York
New York Dept. of Environmental Conservation Wildlife Rehabilitator List

North Carolina
North Carolina Wildlife Resources Commission Wildlife Rehabilitators by County

North Dakota
No online listing of wildlife rehabilitators. Call your local Game and Fish District Office or a veterinarian for assistance.

Ohio
Ohio Dept. of Natural Resources List of Wildlife Rehabilitators by County

Oklahoma
Oklahoma Dept. of Wildlife Conservation List of Wildlife Rehabilitators

Oregon
Oregon Dept. of Fish and Wildlife List of Wildlife Rehabilitators

Pennsylvania
Pennsylvania Association of Wildlife Rehabilitators Listing by County
. If you are unable to find a wildlife rehabilitator, call your local Pennsylvania Game Commission Regional Office.

Rhode Island
Wildlife Rehabilitators Association of Rhode Island
. If you are unable to find a wildlife rehabilitator, call the Rhode Island Dept. of Environmental Management at 401-789-3094 or 401-789-0281.

South Carolina
South Carolina Dept. of Natural Resources Wildlife Rehabilitators Registry by Animal

South Dakota
No online listing of wildlife rehabilitators. Call your Game, Fish & Parks Wildlife Division office to locate a licensed rehabilitator.

Tennessee
Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency Wildlife Rehabilitator Directory

Texas
Texas Parks and Wildlife Dept. List of Wildlife Rehabilitators by County

Utah
Utah Division of Wildlife Resources Licensed Wildlife Rehabilitators

Vermont
Vermont Fish and Wildlife Dept. Licensed Wildlife Rehabilitators

Virginia
Virginia Dept. of Game and Inland Fisheries Licensed Rehabilitators

Washington
Washington Dept. of Fish and Wildlife Conservation Rehabilitators by County

West Virginia
Does not permit rehabilitation of state wildlife. Call your local Dept. of Natural Resources District Office for assistance. For raptors, you can also try contacting West Virginia Raptor Rehabilitation Center.

Wisconsin
Wisconsin Dept. of Natural Resources Wildlife Rehabilitation Directory
. If you are unable to find a wildlife rehabilitator, call the DNR's Wildlife Rehabilitation Liaison at 715-359-5508.

Wyoming
No online listing of rehabilitators. Call your Game & Fish Dept. Regional Office to locate a licensed rehabilitator. 

Source : humanesociety[dot]org

Four Tips for Taking Your Cat to the Veterinarian

You can make trips to the vet easier and less frightening for your cat and yourself

Cats are the most popular pet in the country, but many miss out on regular veterinary visits because the trip can be taxing for human and feline alike.

While keeping cats indoors can help them lead a long and healthy life, regular preventive preventive veterinary checkups are essential for the well-being of cats (or any pet), especially as they age and become more prone to weight loss, diabetes, arthritis and dental disease.

Here are some tips to make health-care visits less taxing for everyone involved.

1. Get your cat used to his carrier

Well before the day of the vet visit, try leaving the carrier out with the door open and a tasty treat inside. Make sure the carrier is large enough for your cat to move around comfortably. Let him rest inside the carrier and then leave when he wants to. Positive experiences with the carrier beforehand can help avert the notorious mad dash for a hiding spot whenever the carrier appears. Consider using a calming spray, such as Feliway®, in the carrier at least 30 minutes before your trip to the vet. Learn more about making the carrier a safe place for your cat from our cat answer tool and a brochure by the American Association of Feline Practitioners [PDF].

2. Find a cat-friendly veterinarian

It's not always easy to choose the right veterinarian. Thankfully, some vets focus exclusively on cats. Others help reduce the stress of visits by setting up their offices to keep cats and dogs apart. Check with the American Association of Feline Practitioners to find an accommodating vet.

3. Praise your cat for a job well done

Verbal praise, treats in the carrier and gentle stroking will help to reassure your cat that she is loved and safe—and will survive this important and necessary trip.

4. Arrive at the veterinarian's office prepared and informed

Before you leave for the vet, write down any questions or concerns that you may have about your cat's health or behavior so you are ready make the most of your visit.

Between vet visits, give your cat regular, simple exams to keep in touch with what's going on with his body. Keep a list of any questions or concerns that come up during these exams so you can discuss them the next time you see the veterinarian.

Worried about the cost of cat care?

Did you know that preventive care and diagnosing a health problem early on can actually save you money? Also, take a look at the resources we've created to make it easier for you to afford those yearly (or twice-yearly) vet visits and other kinds of health care that are so key to helping you and your cat enjoy a long, healthy life together.

  • Resources to help pay for veterinary care
  • Low-cost spay and neuter
  • Financial assistance for pet owners in need
Source : humanesociety[dot]org

Found an Orphaned or Injured Baby Wild Animal?

How to tell if baby animals are orphaned, injured, or perfectly fine—and what to do if they need your help

It's common to see baby wild animals outside during spring, as a new generation makes its way into the world. Continue reading to find out when and how you should help a baby wild animal.

Unless the animal appears injured or in distress, there may be no need to rescue them.

Signs that a wild animal needs your help

  • A cat or dog presents the wild animal to you
  • Evidence of bleeding
  • An apparent or obvious broken limb
  • A featherless or nearly featherless bird on the ground
  • Shivering
  • A dead parent nearby

If you observe the above signs, find help for the animal and safely capture and transport him or her to the appropriate place for treatment.

How else can you tell if the baby animal needs help?

Determining whether an animal is an orphan and needs your help depends upon the animal's age, species, and natural behaviors.

Baby deer

People often mistakenly assume that a baby deer (a fawn) is orphaned when found alone. If he is calm and quiet, he is OK, and his mother deer (the doe) is probably nearby. A doe only visits and nurses her fawn a few times a day to avoid attracting predators. Unless you know the mother is dead, leave the fawn alone.

Mother deer are wary of human smells, so if you have already handled the fawn, take a towel, rub it in the grass, and then wipe down the fawn to remove all human scent. Then return the fawn to the place where you found him.

Only if the fawn is lying on his side, or wandering and crying incessantly, is he likely to need help. If this is the case, contact a licensed wildlife rehabilitator.

Baby birds

Unlike deer and some other animals, birds will not abandon their young if a person touches them. If baby birds have fallen from their nest and you can put them back without danger to yourself, you should do so.

If the original nest was destroyed or is too high to reach, hang a small, shallow basket close to where the original nest was. Woven stick baskets work well—they resemble natural nests and allow rain to pass through so the birds won’t drown. Adult birds won’t jump into anything they cannot see out of, so make sure the basket is not too deep.

Keep watch from a distance for an hour to make sure the parent birds return to the new nest to feed their chicks. If they do not return, contact a licensed wildlife rehabilitator.

Birds with fully feathered bodies but short tail feathers may be fledglings (adolescent birds). You may see them hopping about on the ground, unable to fly. This is normal; birds learn to fly from the ground up!

Fledglings may remain on the ground for a few days, supervised and fed by their parents a few times per hour before they get the hang of flying.

Keep pets away from the area—dogs should be leashed, and cats should be kept indoors. If there are stray pets in the area, put the fledglings in a small basket and hang it securely from a nearby tree limb to keep the birds off the ground for the few extra days they need before they can fly.

However, if baby birds appear injured, alone, or in imminent danger, contact a licensed wildlife rehabilitator.

Baby foxes

Often fox kits will appear unsupervised for long periods of time while their parents are out hunting for food. Observe the kits from a distance; if they seem energetic and healthy, leave them alone. If they appear sickly or weak, or if you have reason to believe both parents are dead, contact a licensed wildlife rehabilitator.

Baby opossums

Baby opossums are born as embryos, barely larger than a bee, and spend about two months nursing within their mother’s pouch. When they get to be about 3-4 inches long and start riding around on her back, they may fall off without her noticing. As a general rule, if an opossum found alone is over 7 inches long (not including the tail), he’s old enough to be on his own; if less than 7 inches long (not including the tail), he is an orphan, and you should contact a licensed wildlife rehabilitator.

Baby rabbits

A rabbit who is four inches long with open eyes and erect ears is independent from his mother and should be allowed to fend for himself. Uninjured baby rabbits in a nest that is intact should also be left alone. Mother rabbits only visit their dependent young to nurse them 2-3 times a day to avoid attracting predators.

If the rabbit nest has been disturbed, though, or if you think the babies are orphaned, cover the nest with surrounding natural materials such as grass and leaves, and follow these steps.

  • Keep all pets out of the area, as they may harm the young rabbits.
  • Avoid touching the babies, as foreign smells may cause the mother to abandon her young.
  • Make an “X” with sticks or yarn over the nest to assess if the mother is returning to nurse her young.
  • If the “X” is moved but the nest is still covered by the next day, the mother has returned to nurse the babies.
  • If the “X” remains undisturbed for 24 hours, contact a licensed wildlife rehabilitator.
Baby raccoons

If a baby raccoon has been seen alone for more than a few hours, he is probably an orphan, because mother raccoons closely supervise their young and don’t let them out of their sight. You can put an upside-down laundry basket over the baby (with a light weight on top so he cannot push his way out) and monitor him for a few hours. If the mother does not return, contact a licensed wildlife rehabilitator.

Baby skunks

If you see a baby skunk—or a line of baby skunks, nose-to-tail—running around without a mother in sight, he (or they) may be orphaned. Skunks have poor eyesight, so if something scares a mother skunk and she runs off, her babies can quickly lose sight of her.

Monitor the situation for an hour or two to see if the mother rejoins her young. You can also put on gloves and slowly place a plastic laundry basket upside down over the baby skunks to keep them in one spot and make it easier for the mother to find them.

If the mother returns to her young and you need to lift the basket to let them out, remember that moving quickly may frighten them, causing them to use their spray defense. If you move slowly and speak softly, though, it's unlikely that you will be sprayed. If she does not stamp her front feet to show that she is alarmed, you should be safe to proceed. If no mother comes to retrieve her young, contact a licensed wildlife rehabilitator.

Baby squirrels

A squirrel who is nearly full-sized, has a full and fluffy tail, and is able to run, jump, and climb is independent. However, if a squirrel nest falls or a younger baby squirrel falls from a nest, you may need to intervene.

If you don’t think the babies fell from the tree today, or if they appear injured, immediately contact a wildlife rehabilitator.

If you are certain the baby squirrels fell from the tree today, give the mother squirrel a chance to reclaim her young. If the baby is uninjured, leave him where he is, leave the area, keep people and pets away, and monitor him from a safe distance.

If it’s chilly outside, or the baby isn’t fully furred, place him in a shallow box with something warm underneath (like a heating pad on a low setting or a hot water bottle). Do not cover him with leaves or blankets, as the mother may not be able to find him. If the babies are not retrieved within a few hours, take these steps to warm them.

Wearing thick gloves, gather the squirrels and place them inside a thick, soft cloth, such as a cloth diaper or fleece scarf or hat.

Provide immediate warmth by placing one of the following beneath the cloth: chemical hand warmers, a hot water bottle (replace the hot water every 30 minutes), or a heating pad set on the lowest setting. (If the heating pad has no cover, put it inside a pillow case.)

Place the baby squirrels, cloth, and warmer inside a small cardboard box. Call a wildlife rehabilitator. You can also try calling your local humane society. Many shelters and humane societies can provide emergency care for wildlife.


Finding help for the animal

Once you're sure the animal needs your help, call a wildlife rehabilitator for assistance. If you’re unable to locate a rehabilitator, try contacting one of the following:

  • Local animal shelter or humane society
  • Animal control agency
  • Nature center
  • Veterinarian

How to find a wildlife rehabilitator »

Capturing and transporting the animal

Once you've contacted someone who can help, describe the animal and his physical condition as accurately as possible.

Unless you are told otherwise, here's how you can make an animal more comfortable for transport or while you're waiting for help to arrive:

  • Never handle an adult animal without first consulting with a wildlife professional. Even small animals can injure you.
  • Put the animal in a safe container. For most songbirds, a paper bag may be used for transport. For larger birds or other animals, use a cardboard box or similar container. First, punch holes for air, from the inside out, and line the box with an old T-shirt or other soft cloth.
  • Put on thick gloves and use a towel or pillowcase to cover the animal as you scoop him up gently and place him in the container.
  • Do not give the animal food or water: it may cause him to choke, develop digestive problems, or drown. Also, many injured animals are in shock, and eating or drinking can make it worse.
  • Place the container in a warm, dark, quiet place—away from pets, children, and noise—until you can transport the animal. Be sure to keep the container away from direct sunlight, air conditioning, or heat.
  • Transport the animal as soon as possible.
  • While transporting the animal, leave the radio off and keep talking to a minimum.
Source : humanesociety[dot]org

Choosing a Wildlife Control Company

Seven tips for selecting a humane wildlife control company

The Humane Society of the United States

With the right information and supplies, it’s often pretty easy to  solve conflicts with your wild neighbors by yourself.

But when it’s time to call in a professional, we recommend the following guidelines when seeking and contracting for services.

1. Ensure that the company will provide an on-site inspection and a firm written estimate. It would be difficult for any company to assess and price the job over the phone, but they should be able to give you a rundown of their services by hour or fees per unit of material. Any fee for the on-site inspection should apply toward the work that is contracted. During the on-site visit, ask that the company identify:

  • The animal(s) using the structure.
  • All of the entry points as well as any potential entry points.
  • Whether or not there are offspring.
  • How the answers to these were determined.

Most companies will, and all should, provide pictures to explain how the animal is using a structure and what needs to be repaired to ensure the structure is wildlife proof.

2. Request specific details about how the intrusion or problem will be resolved and how the animal(s) will be treated. Will the animal be killed, and if so why? Are there offspring that will be orphaned or abandoned? Will the method used resolve the problem for the long-term?

3. If an animal is inside a structure, insist on the use of guaranteed eviction/exclusion strategies that include one-way doors and/or hands-on removal and reunion of families that will ultimately lead to their release outside of the structure. 

4. Make sure that the company provides a full range of animal-proofing/exclusion services that carry at least a one-year guarantee against re-entry. The job is not complete until the identified access points have been effectively refitted with exclusion material that will stand up to challenge by wildlife.

5. Never sign a contract that contains an open-ended clause allowing a company to charge for removal of any and every animal that can be trapped on the property. This is an unethical practice and will not solve conflicts for the long-term.

6. Obtain a referral for the company from a local wildlife rehabilitator, humane society, or animal control agency. Ask these references how they have determined that the company uses humane practices.

7. You can also request written assurance that the company’s practices are in compliance with federal, state or provincial, and local laws and regulations. Make surethat the company carries commercial liability insurance and any required licenses. And you can always ask for references from previous customers.

» Purchase a copy of Wild Neighbors; the go-to guide for useful, humane solutions to conflicts with wildlife. 

» If you are located within the D.C. Metro Area, take advantage of our wildlife conflict resolution service.

Source : humanesociety[dot]org

The Caterpillar Effect: Attracting Butterflies to Your Garden

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By catering to caterpillars, you can create a haven for butterflies and other animals

All Animals magazine, September/October 2014

by Nancy Lawson

Pop quiz: What’s the best way to help butterflies in your backyard? If you answered “Plant butterfly bush,” you’re in good company. A recent survey of my gardening friends elicited the same response from more than a few.

It’s easy to understand why: Aside from its self-reinforcing moniker, the plant validates its reputation by attracting many of its namesake insects in the height of summer. Garden centers sell it with abandon, and online searches for best butterfly plants invariably draw the species into top results.

But a growing number of wildlife-friendly gardeners understand that, for all its beauty, this shrub, native to Asia, has no place in our ecosystem. In fact, it takes over habitats that are of far greater value to butterflies and other creatures. Like many nonnatives, the butterfly bush provides no sustenance to butterfly babies, turning gardens into adults-only communities without the amenities that allow youngsters to flourish and grow.

Fall is the perfect time to help monarch butterflies survive by planting milkweed! Learn how

The struggling monarch butterfly, whose larvae rely on the leaves of disappearing milkweed, has become the poster child for the critical relationship between specific plant and animal species. But it’s just one of many insect “specialists” who can digest only plants they’ve co-evolved with.

Factoring in the needs of other animals reveals an even broader problem when nonnatives dominate a landscape. As entomologist Douglas Tallamy notes in Bringing Nature Home, 96 percent of this continent’s terrestrial bird species rely on insects to feed their young. Chickadees, for example, require an average of 9,100 caterpillars to raise a single brood.

Fortunately, many of the plants essential to the butterfly life cycle carry considerable aesthetic appeal. And thanks to the efforts of wildlife lovers and native plant enthusiasts, it’s easier than ever to find species that will help you cater to caterpillars and the species that depend on them.

Whether you have a large property that can accommodate the greatest of wildlife-sustaining plants, the oak tree, or a balcony that can house pots of the beautiful joe-pye weed, you can create a space that offers baby food for young residents and nectar, berries and seed for their parents.

The key is to make sure you’re planting the right variety for the animals in your region. Seek advice at native plant sales, nature centers, arboretums, state and local native plant societies, and websites such as wildflower.org, plants.usda.gov and beautifulwildlifegarden.com. Here are some ideas to get you started.

Perennial Favorites

Though many of the plants most useful to wildlife have the word “weed” in them due to their once abundant presence on the continent, they now need help to repatriate the land. For example, milkweed, which supports monarchs and many other butterfly caterpillars, is being wiped out by the proliferation of chemical-laden corn and soybean crops in the Midwest. To help reverse this trend, plant butterfly weed, not butterfly bush, and other milkweed species.

Another butterfly favorite is joe-pye weed; just one of these plants in my backyard last summer had dozens of swallowtail butterflies fluttering around it all day for weeks, making it even more of a nectar magnet than a butterfly bush. Even better, the plant also feeds the caterpillars of more than three dozen species of Lepidoptera (the large order of insects that includes both butterflies and moths).

Black-eyed Susans host the caterpillars of dozens of species and are broadly distributed throughout the United States. The wide-ranging cloudless sulphur butterfly prefers wild senna and related plants in the pea family, and native violets host a number of fritillary species while also providing beautiful ground cover.

Ambitious Climbers

If you’ve ever had English ivy, you’re probably aware of how invasive it is. Virginia creeper, our native alternative, provides food for the Pandora sphinx moth caterpillar and berries for bluebirds and other animals. Many people still confuse this plant with three-leaved poison ivy and yank it from their gardens, but its five leaves make it easily distinguishable.

Passionflower, a gorgeous tropical-looking vine, hosts caterpillars of gulf fritillaries, zebra longwings, red-banded hairstreaks and other butterflies. An added bonus: For all its delicate beauty, the plant requires no extra care.

Tall Leafy Layers

Gardeners with yards can also provide habitat for swallowtails by planting bushes and trees that serve as larvae hosts. For spicebush swallowtails, spicebush and sassafras trees work well in smaller spaces. Pawpaw trees provide a custard-like fruit for animals (and humans!) and tasty leaves for the zebra swallowtail caterpillar.

For Eastern tiger swallowtails, plant the fast-growing and low-maintenance tulip poplar; in my yard these bright yellow butterflies flutter down from the poplars early in the morning, feast all day and return to the trees at night. Native willows are popular with Western tiger swallowtails and mourning cloak butterflies.

Whatever natives you plant, be mentally prepared for the visible evidence of insect approval. A mass of eggs or a crowd of caterpillars chewing through your leaves may at first surprise you, but this feasting should be cause for celebration of your hard work to make your property a life-sustaining sanctuary for all animals—including the babies who will one day spread their wings and grace your garden as beautiful butterflies.

Share your DIY humane backyard project on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, using the hashtag #humanebackyard in your posts.


Read more from this issue »
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Source : humanesociety[dot]org

Digging for Their Lives

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An HSUS-backed project in Florida is unearthing thousands of threatened gopher tortoises, saving them from a cruel fate

All Animals magazine, September/October 2014

by Michael Sharp

The tortoise crawls up through the dark sandy dirt, heading toward the mouth of his burrow. But instead of emerging into the Florida sun, he runs into a layer of concrete. He uses his front claws to try to dig his way past the problem. He can’t get through.

Trapped in his burrow, the tortoise slides back. He climbs again. He slides back again. Again and again. Because of his slow metabolism, it will take months for him to die—of starvation, or dehydration, or suffocation—buried alive under a new house.

Nothing has ever hit Carissa Kent as hard as this image of a gopher tortoise. In her head, she imagines he’s trapped below someone’s living room, scratching at the concrete, dying slowly. Climbing and sliding.

This image drives her. Even today, it still causes her voice to crack slightly. This image, put simply, has changed her life.

Kent has always felt a pull to help. As a child, she would save up her birthday money, then head out to the local fast-food joint to buy meals for the homeless. Sometimes, she’d donate her money to an animal organization or stuff it in one of those charity coffers outside a grocery store. Once, in middle school, she even socked a bully who was picking on a friend.

After studying psychology in college, she spent six years as a child abuse investigator with the Seminole County Sheriff ’s Office. But then she read in an HSUS newsletter about efforts to save threatened gopher tortoises being buried below a new big-box store. Kent didn’t sleep for two nights. She read everything she could find online. She began calling biologists, conservationists, wildlife nonprofits and state agencies, taking her own crash course on the issue.

“Being buried alive—I was horrified,” she says. “If someone buried a dog, they would be going to jail. You would be arrested and charged with animal abuse. I was like, there’s no way I’m putting up with this nonsense.”

So, in the final stages of testing to become a special agent, she walked away from her childhood dream of joining the FBI. She cashed in her retirement savings and put it toward a solution—a project, “Saving Florida’s Gopher Tortoises,” for which The HSUS has helped secure funding for the past seven years.

“Within probably two days of reading that article, and doing all this research, I had my mind made up,” she says, adding with a laugh: “I was like, damn it, man—I knew my life was just done. Not in a bad way. But just that part of my life was done. And I have not had an iota of regret since.”

That’s how she came to be wading through this overgrown field in Apopka, Florida, on a hot Memorial Day weekend, some 25 miles northwest of Orlando.

Kent and her team, along with several HSUS employees and two families of volunteers, are spending this Sunday digging for tortoises at the end of an empty cul-de-sac—where homes Nos. 212 and 213 will one day stand in a housing development known as The Meadows of Maude Helen.

“Always look where you’re walking,” Kent calls out, getting the morning started with a safety briefing.

There are plenty of trip hazards across this lot, she warns. Grapevines. Burrows. There are also venomous snakes in the area. Eastern diamondbacks. Pygmy rattlesnakes. Coral snakes. “Do not put your hands in any tortoise burrows,” she cautions. And, of course, be mindful of the backhoe, on hand to assist with the digging.

Her final words of advice: “Stay hydrated.”

All around, 37 pink flags dot the landscape, rising above the thick brush, each one indicating another burrow. “Protected by Law,” the flags read, with a picture of a tortoise. “Stay 25 Feet Away.”

The team has already surveyed about a dozen lots in this phase of the rescue. Across the street, a halfblock up, three houses stand in various stages of development—one just a foundation, the next an empty shell, the next nearly done. In another lot, large piles of dirt, dumped during construction, loom like misplaced mountains.

Gopher tortoises are a keystone species: Their burrows provide shelter for more than 300 animals and insects, such as snakes, mice, toads and black widow spiders. Hit hard by urban development and actually eaten by humans in parts of the Southeast for decades, they’re now listed as threatened in Florida and a candidate for the federal endangered species list.

Perhaps fittingly then, these tortoises require a unique and delicate rescue process (see photos below). It alternates between one person kneeling down, digging carefully with a hand shovel, and another sitting high above on a backhoe, unearthing shrubs and large swaths of soil.

“There’s no other species that we use a piece of equipment like that to rescue,” says Dave Pauli, HSUS senior adviser for wildlife response and policy. “We’re taking this very ancient reptile and getting them with modern equipment, and getting them out of the way of civilization.”

Today, the person in the yellow backhoe is Mike Oliver. Two days ago, he was scuba diving in the Bahamas. But he cut the trip short, leaving his family behind to enjoy a few more days in paradise so that he could head back to this field, where ants, wolf spiders and countless walking sticks make their way up pant legs and across the backs of T-shirts.

“It’s just something I love to do,” he says, “and they know it.”

Oliver learned the art of backhoeing for tortoises from his father-in-law, George Hand, who had been out clearing trees in the early 90s when an environmental consultant approached him about trying to maybe dig gopher tortoises out from a construction site. “He just found his niche,” Oliver says. “Once word got out … the phone started ringing.”

In 2001, as the need for such operators continued to expand, Hand asked Oliver for some help, initially showing him the ropes by having him work the ground with a shovel. “What my father really instilled is safety,” he says, both for the person climbing into the hole and the tortoise they’re searching to save.

“It takes a gentle hand; it really does,” Oliver says. “You know there’s a living animal down there, and your purpose is to save him and to relocate him. So you’ve got to do it so gently.”

He’s a surgeon up in that seat, operating the long steel arm with the touch of a joystick. A dig can last anywhere from 15 minutes to two-plus hours, and the burrows themselves can reach 15 feet deep and 40 feet long. If the tortoise happens to be right-handed, the hole may wind to the right. Vice versa if he’s a leftie. About 40 percent of the time, there’s no one home.

Oliver will peel away the shrubs and grass from around the entrance, then, when it’s clear the burrow runs much deeper, start removing dirt several feet at a time. Toward the end, he can remove as little as a quarter-inch, if Kent, his co-digger on the ground, hits a particularly tough spot of clay.

At one point this morning, he uses the bucket to build stairs down into a hole, shaping and patting down the sand, so that Kent can descend in after a tortoise.

“He’s just showing off now,” someone jokes.

“We want a mermaid sculpture,” jokes another.

Kent kneels down later in another hole, digging through hard sand. She’s following a 10-foot-long PVC pole that was inserted earlier into the mouth of the burrow to help determine depth and direction. As she nears the end, she wonders if the burrow is ending or just turning.

She stops, asking Oliver to take about 3 inches off the top, then she slowly continues digging. An errant jab from a shovel can do major damage to a younger tortoise’s shell, so as Oliver says, it takes a gentle hand.

“It looks like we’re at the end,” Kent says. But she keeps digging, then sifts through the sand with her fingers. (“This is why manicures are useless on me.”) The smaller tortoises sometimes continue burrowing as the team pursues them, and the sand they kick back can cover their tracks.

“Oh, look,” she says, suddenly. “This is why we do it.”

She finds a tortoise, 4 inches past the end. Like the others, this one is placed in a container with dirt from the burrow to reduce stress. The lid is then closed to simulate the feeling of being back underground, and the container is placed in a coveted slice of shade.

The lesson is hammered home again and again throughout the day: Keep digging. Keep looking. At one point, workers locate a tortoise hidden in a side chamber after initially digging right past him.

“That was a nice find,” Pauli congratulates.

Typically, when there isn’t quite this audience, Kent will both signal and celebrate another find with what’s become known as her tortoise dance. She gives a very brief preview Sunday, swinging her hips, singing “tor-toise dance … tor-toise dance.”

“It took a long time,” Pauli quips, “to get her to come out of her shell.”

As the team moves from hole to hole, volunteer Jeannie Carroll spends much of her morning slowly crisscrossing the property, triple-checking that they haven’t missed any of the half-moon-shaped burrows. She looks for paths and small corridors through the weeds. She lifts up vines and leaves. A small pile of fresh dirt is typically a dead giveaway.

“When you can go through again and you can see it using a different eye, and you find more—yeah, it’s pretty cool,” Carroll says. “Because those are ones that possibly could have been buried and lost their life.”

Throughout the day, local television reporters stop by to film digs and conduct interviews. One such story is picked up as far away as San Francisco.

But what makes Oliver really happy to see are the kids—that interest from the next generation. A father and son stop by to watch for a bit. One family of volunteers helps Carroll search for overlooked burrows. And 21-year-old Taina Torres, a biology student at the University of Central Florida who is here with her dad and sister, gets the honor of removing a young tortoise from a burrow at the back of the lot.

“It was really cool. I’m going to remember this for a long time,” she says afterward, laughing. She adds later: “I feel like it’s making a difference in the community—human and animal. I feel like it’s important to do conservation work, and that’s what I want to do when I get older.”

At first, Bruce Riggins thought he saw a cat across the street, walking low, stalking prey through the grass.

But the thing sure didn’t act like a cat. So Riggins got up from his lunch, put on his glasses and walked outside his newly built house for a closer look. “There was a gopher tortoise,” he says. “It was making its way back to its burrow.”

About a week later, Riggins watched as someone ran a brush hog mower through the lot across the street, clearing the land. That’s when Riggins began to see more and more burrows: “I was like, ‘Oh, OK, this is something that somebody should know about.’ ”

To date, the project has saved more than 4,300 tortoises.

He emailed the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission, where he’d previously volunteered. “I figured for sure that these things would be killed. My fear was that they were going to get run over with the brush hog, and the blades were going to hit them.”

Thanks to regulations that Kent and then-HSUS state director Jennifer Hobgood helped push for in 2007, developers in Florida can no longer bury gopher tortoises on construction sites. They must relocate them instead.

But hundreds, if not thousands, of “incidental take” permits were grandfathered in with those regulations, allowing some companies to still build on top of active burrows. These are the companies that Kent now works with and seeks out as an HSUS consultant—hustling back and forth across Florida, working days on end, to get the tortoises out before the construction begins.

To date, the project has saved more than 4,300 tortoises.

In the case of the Maude Helen lots, site of this weekend’s dig, the email from Riggins prompted a visit from fish and wildlife officer Bernie Bresie. He assessed the situation. He met with a developer. And eventually, he called Kent.

“Gopher tortoises, most importantly, are endangered because of development in Florida,” Bresie says. “But they are also a very important ecological animal because their burrows provide homes for a number of other endangered species or threatened species, like indigo snakes, burrowing owls and some of the smaller animals. …

“So once those burrows are destroyed, you’re affecting not just the gopher tortoise’s habitat but other species’. So that’s why we’re trying so hard to protect them.”

In mid-April, Kent and her team helped remove 37 tortoises from the development. They’ll save 17 more this Memorial Day weekend—three babies found Saturday while they were out marking burrows and 14 more during Sunday’s dig.

The team seems to have stumbled upon a nursery of sorts in these two cul-de-sac lots: Of the 17 rescued, all but one are 4 years or younger. Pauli notes that’s why this species is having so much trouble reproducing at a rate that keeps up with the construction: They don’t reach sexual maturity until somewhere between 12 and 20. (They can live to be as old as 100.)

The oldest tortoise they find Sunday is actually the last tortoise they find. On most afternoons, it would have been too late to start digging into a burrow this size, but Pauli had snaked a tunnel cam down in there, revealing his exact location. This one’s an estimated 14 years old, and judging by the length and depth of his burrow, he doesn’t appear to have been slowed by what Kent suspects is a birth defect. He’s missing his right front arm below the elbow.

As Kent unearths him, Riggins watches from above, having just swung by to say hello. Later, back at the staging area, he makes a staggering point about this rescue work: “That little one there. You figure, that’s going to live the rest of my life, my kid’s life and my kid’s kid’s life.

“That’s amazing.”

Almost exactly 24 hours later, the older tortoise with the bum front leg stands in front of a new burrow, contemplating his next move. He is now 360 miles away from The Meadows of Maude Helen.

First thing Monday morning, Pauli and Nicole Paquette, HSUS vice president of wildlife protection, drove this tortoise and the 16 others from Apopka up into the Florida panhandle, to the 51,000-acre Nokuse Plantation. The private preserve is dedicated to conservation and will house these tortoises and other transplants for the remainder of their long lives.

But first, they must go through check-in.

Each tortoise is assigned a number, which is marked onto their shells with a coded system of notches and tiny holes. The location of each marking corresponds with designated numbers on a chart. It doesn’t hurt; it’s the equivalent, staffers explain, of humans cutting their fingernails.

The tortoises are measured and weighed, and staffers estimate their ages by reading the lines along their undersides, like rings on a tree. Tortoises with flat undersides are marked as female. Those with a more concave belly are marked as males.

Helping with the process is Derek Breakfield, who recently graduated from Marshall University with a master’s degree in biology. The Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission hired him for this new position to work specifically with the gopher tortoises at Nokuse.

Typically, Breakfield releases the tortoises just 10 at a time, so as not to attract predators with too many new smells at once. He washes them off with water, then rubs new sand over their shells as he sets them free. He likes to do this early in the mornings, before the dew’s cooked off, driving the newcomers about 10 miles out from the lab, up into the plantation, over sandy roads and through two locked gates.

Those accomplishments, it’s what makes all of the work, and brutal conditions, and long days absolutely worth it. It’s really incredible—the scope of what this little project just to save the tortoises from being buried alive has become." -Carissa Kent

In each of the large pens, roughly 30 acres each, Nokuse staffers have dug starter burrows for the rescued tortoises. One in five times, the animals will walk right down into that burrow and call it home. But with an internal GPS system of sorts—a trait they share with pigeons, salmon and monarch butterflies—many will eventually emerge and try to return home.

That’s why each pen is surrounded, for at least a year, by greyish-black silk fencing that extends a foot below the surface. The new tortoises sometimes wander this fence line; the coyotes, though, have caught on, doing the same themselves each night. So late in the afternoons, staffers walk the perimeters, trying to deter the predators with their scent, placing tortoises back safely into burrows.

On Monday afternoon, they find a male crawling along the fencing, apparently struggling to dig a new burrow in a tough stretch of dirt near a root. Bob Walker, a gopher tortoise technician whom the local schoolkids know as “Turtle Bob” for his educational talks, digs out and freshens up an old starter burrow nearby.

Placed just outside that burrow, the tortoise slides down into the mouth of the opening. A moment later, he suddenly shoots out of sight. Breakfield notes: “They’re surprisingly fast when they want to be.”

Later, they’ll look up this guy—No. 1958—and learn that he’d been released here on March 24, 2012. His old burrow had apparently been along a stretch of train tracks. He’d been safely dug up and removed before a round of rail maintenance.

Kent and her team skipped the Nokuse trip to move on to a construction site in Jacksonville. They haven’t worked with the developer before, so in hopes of building a strong working relationship, they volunteered to start searching for tortoises on the Memorial Day holiday.

In the weeks that follow, they’ll return to The Meadows of Maude Helen to finish rescuing tortoises from the cul-de-sac lots.

Over the next two days, Breakfield will release two waves of the young Apopka tortoises in another territory at Nokuse, where blackberry bushes and gopher grass provide thick ground cover for their protection. For once, these youngsters have perfect timing: They arrive as staffers are completing a project to install electrical fencing around the pens, to better keep the coyotes and raccoons at bay.

But for now, as Monday winds down, a small group of Nokuse staffers and HSUS employees stands watching as the 14-year-old with the bum front leg considers a starter burrow about 35 feet from the fence line.

Breakfield gently rubs sand over his shell, then does the same with his underbelly. It’s so quiet out here—save for the occasional call of a bird, the wind through pine trees and the rough flutter of grasshopper wings. There’s no hint of civilization in any direction, just the sandy terrain, fields of white and yellow fleabane flowers, and those thin young pines.

Originally, this was just going to be a mock release, something for an accompanying television reporter to shoot. But the tortoise seems to take to his new spot. He crawls down into the mouth of the burrow, pauses, then heads into the sandy darkness. In his wake, a crowd of small black crickets emerges. Breakfield and Walker decide to just let him go—free now in the dirt, far away from the creeping threat of construction. No concrete in sight.

“Just a very special moment,” Pauli will say later. “I have no fear that that tortoise went from truly a potentially worst possible situation to a potentially best possible situation. That doesn’t happen in life a lot.”

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Source : humanesociety[dot]org
 

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